Caine Terrier mix keeps going in house..PEUW!

Question:
 I have an 8 month old female caine terrier poodle mix. We got her from a kennel about 3 months ago. We have tried everything you can think of when it comes to house training but nothing we have done works. She will go a day or two with no accidents and then the next day she is pooing and peeing EVERYWHERE! I have talked to the vet and he just told me the same things that I have already been trying. We have done crate training and she doesn't seem to mind doing her business in there and rolling around in it which I thought dogs did not do. I have a 2 year old now and another on the way. I don't want pee and poo stained carpets with 2 young children. HELP...I'M READY TO GIVE HER AWAY!!!
Answer:
 First, Cairn... Sorry, that is the correct spelling... Second, crate training a dog that is used to soiling where she sleeps because she was forced to is defeating the purpose. This dog will continue to potty in her crate because she has learned to tolerate it from her previous home. Once this behavior is established it is very hard to retrain using a crate. So stop the crate and work a tethering method. Also bear in mind MOST vets have little solid knowledge of canine behavior other than what they learn on their own or unless they go on to specialize in canine behavior post-graduate from vet school. (My sister is a vet and they get little to no behavioral work in vet school). I have actually heard vets giving dangerous assessments of dogs and outdated info. Also, crate training need to be done very specifically or the dog will learn to potty in the crate and also never get the chance to learn house manners. Get rid of the crate - why beat a dead horse? She was improperly crated before and this is how crate soiling behaviors start - the dog has to go, no one lets the dog out or has taught the dog to signal and the dog is forced to potty in the crate and learn to tolerate its own waste. retrain... When you are out, confine the dog to a safe room where if she has an accident, you can clean it up. When you are home the dog is to be tethered to you with a leash or in the same room and unable to escape by using baby gates. This way if she starts to potty inside you can stop the behavior in the act. If she finishes and you correct her, in her mind she is NOT being corrected for pottying inside but rather for the action she was doing at the time of the correction - what if that action was coming to you to play or be sweet? You have now corrected her for coming to you in her mind... If you go to this URL and scroll down, you will see a bit on managing the crate soiler. http://www.mauihumane.org/pam204.htm "The dog that eliminates in its crate poses special problems. In these cases, crates and cages may not be the ideal training aid. Since the purpose of the crate is to provide a safe, comfortable area for the dog to “curl up and relax”, it is not appropriate for dogs that are anxious about entering or staying in their cage. While this can be overcome with training techniques, it may be better to confine these dogs to a small room such as a laundry room, or kitchen where the dog is fed, or a bedroom where the dog sleeps." Now for general housetraining using a tether: Use the crate less and leashes and baby gates more during the day to keep pup or adult dog with you. Crates are for when you are not awake or home to monitor pup and keep him safe. (Since your dog crate soils, confine to a safe roomwhen you are not home as stated and you can tether the dog to your bed at night - just do so on a BUCKLE collar - or confine the dog to your bedroom with a baby gate. Wear the dog out WELL before bed and the liklihood thet dog will lseep through the night is better.) If he is right with you, you can stop the undesired behavior as it starts. He also gets a chance to learn to signal you and you get to learn how to read his signals. Signals will vary dog to dog and may range from a simple glance towards a door to circling, sniffing, etc. When a dog starts to act anxious or give what I feel may be a signal, I ask if the dog/pup needs to go out. NOTE: If you work during the day and a young pup is going to be home alone for more than four hours, you need to either adapt your schedule so you can give the pup a midday potty break and walk or hire a dog walker to do this. Long periods without being able to get out and potty will force the pup to either potty in the crate or in the house if he is left confined to a room. The pup learns out of necessity to potty inside and may stop signaling to you when you are out of site when he has to go. Adolescent dogs should be able to hold for up to six hours. An older adolescent or adult dog may be able to hold up to eight hours. And at night, young pups may only be able t hold for three or four hours, adult dogs should be able to hold all night. But ignoring possible signals for having to potty may result in the critter having to potty inside out of necessity. The dog or pup gets taken out ON LEAD and is given five minutes to potty. Give the dog a cue phrase like “Go Potty,” “Get Busy,” “Kennel Up,” that the dog will be taught to associate with the desired behavior – BE CONSISTENT with the cue used. If potty does not happen, you both go back in, lead stays ON and things are boring. If I see potential signaling again, I repeat. Do this until successful potty outside. Once potty outside has happened - LEASH OFF AND PLAY and you may begin your walk! Many dogs will walk and walk until they are ready to potty because we teach them that we will stay out as long as it takes for them to go. So if we set limits, we are back in control and the dog learns that play or walking comes AFTER he does his business. Now the pup starts to learn a sequence: this action inside when I feel like this (remember to watch for body language indicating the pup or dog may have to go) gets this response, I do this, and I get fun. When I do not do this, we go back inside, I get boring. Dogs do not think like we do and they need to learn each section of the sequence of events leading up to pottying outside and that eventual reward they want. We cannot verbally explain it to them; they have to learn by experience as so we when it comes to reading their body language. I never let dogs or pups learning housetraining manners out of my site. They have to learn how to signal me. When they are reliably signaling me and approaching me in that room to let me know they have to potty, and then I will give GRADUAL freedoms and add a second room. I progress gradually as each new level of challenge is mastered. If there is a regression, I regress back to a safer point and restrict house freedom to whatever room or two I am in and then start again. When the dog is good during the day, I will start adding gradual freedoms at night. If the dog is reliably housetrained at night and also not destructive, I start adding gradual house freedoms during the day when I am not home. This will start with one room and for short periods and gradually progress with time and expansion into more of the house as the dog learns.